![]() Humidity levels at or below 50% are ideal. Temperature guidelines: HyperDip® is sensitive to humidity. It remains flexible, stretchy and will not crack, or become brittle in extreme temperatures when applied correctly. HyperDip® protects dipped surfaces from acids, abrasion, corrosion, impact, salts, moisture and weathering. Please note that brighter colors like Reaper Red and Polar white should be sprayed over a base of Nardo Grey HyperDip. Please make sure you watch the Gloss HyperDip® video closely and follow all guidelines. Gloss products are traditionally more difficult to spray than satin or matte. Do not stack Gloss HyperDip® on top of other HyperDip® products, such as Shadow Black. HyperDip® is not compatible with traditional Plasti Dip or any other non-HyperDip® coatings, so please do not combine or stack with any other products. Enhanced finishes and sheen right out of the can ![]() You will notice the benefits of the advanced HyperDip® technology immediately: HyperDip® is perfect for your Wheels, Trim, Emblems, Mirrors or any small surface. HyperDip® is still peelable like Plasti Dip, however improved in every way. HyperDip® is the latest technology in peelable aerosol paints. Available in a variety of colors and finishes including Shadow Black, Piano Black, Frozen Black, Polar White, Nardo Grey, Stealth Grey, Black Emerald, Bronze Gold, Brass Monkey, Reaper Red and Polar White. HyperDip® is a deep, rich Satin or Gloss right out of the can. Get it right the first time.Everything you need to Black Out your vehicle's Badges andEmblems. Maybe that was my bad? Also, don't listen to anyone that says you can lightly stick the new badge and then adjust it slightly for perfect placement. I didn't like the idea of hitting new paint with something like that. That really pissed me off.Īpparently 3M makes a buffer wheel for a hand drill that "erases" the old adhesive. It left a small gap between the top of the badge and the fender. Then, when I finally applied the new badges (cheap China crap) I discovered the tape on one of the Z71 plates was not properly affixed to the badge. In fact, until you are down to the final super fine last layer of glaze Goo Gone tends to just smeer the adhesive around contaminating clean areas. Goo Gone does almost nothing to help with the adhesive you must remove. Bottom line is it becomes a painstaking job for your fingernails. The mess your left with after that is a total PIA. Getting the factory badges off is the easy part. Second, I tried the two removal methods most often recommended on YouTube, heat gun and fishing line. So, if I was going to do it again I would start by making sure I had true OEM badges. First, the new black badges I ordered from Amazon claimed to be OEM and 3M adhesive. I replaced my tailgate lettering and Z71 emblems. ![]() Since you brought it up I will add my own blackout frustration. It should not take off material from the vehicle emblems. Hopefully someone else had a better experience with this product but I certainly will not be using this again. Hopefully the paint swirls and any remaining residue comes out over time with washing but I'm thinking I will need to get the vehicle ceramic coated or something to get the paint corrected. That would have been great if it ended there but it then took me another hour vigorously scrubbing with a detail spray and micro fiber towel to remove the small amount of over spray that felt literally like cement on the paint. It took me over 3 hours and a 30 minute stint in the local do it yourself spray car wash using the power washer and soup at 11pm last night to get the remaining product off of the emblems. I used a micro fiber towel to remove following the directions. I thought maybe it just needed more coats as many a little bit of the car wash soup wasn't fully dried from prepping the vehicle for this project but come to find out after the finish just wasn't what I expected and trying to remove the product it peeled the red detail out of the Z71 emblem. As I sprayed the product and waited the advised time between coats I noticed that it wasn't adhering to the red and the silver parts of the Z71 emblems on each front fender. Rust-Oleum® Vinyl Wrap sprayed just fine but was never a true black color that was similar to the black paint of my TB. I only used it because it was on the shelf at the store and it was supposed to be gloss black and not matte black like Plasti Dip (next time I will just order Hyper Dip and call it a day or suck it up and just buy the OEM black emblems). This Rust-Oleum® Vinyl Wrap product was the exact opposite. I have used Plasti Dip numerous time on other vehicles and it worked great good coverage, peelability, removing any overspray was very easy and didn't affect any material on the vehicle. So I tried a new product last night Rust-Oleum® Vinyl Wrap to black out the emblems on my 21 CTB and to put it bluntly it was a terrible experience.
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